The quick summary of this hike from Backpacker Magazine reads:
"Check your vertigo at the trailhead: This hewn-from-sheer-cliffs hike in the Columbia River Gorge traverses narrow ledges hundreds of feet above churning Eagle Creek (a cable system provides handholds in key spots). Ascend to the blue-green grotto of Punchbowl Falls (with a swimming hole). Continue another 1.8 miles to the hike's dizzying crescendo: The trail, carved into basalt, dives behind Tunnel Falls. Turn around here, or brave the "Vertical Mile" to Twister Falls."
I would consider this description to be only 10% accurate. While there are plenty of cliffs to traverse the majority of the hike is fairly mundane. The trail follows Eagle creek at a steady but gentle slope through various types of forrest for the duration of the hike. Aside from the views there really isn't much to get your heart pounding on this hike.
To get there from Portland OR, take I-84 to Exit 41. Turn right off of the exit ramp and follow the road to trailhead parking lot at the end. Coming from the east you have to go to Exit 40 and backtrack one mile east on I-84 to Exit 41. Also, make sure to pay the $5 for a parking permit.
Starting from the trailhead the first section isn't much to look at (not by Columbia Gorge standards at least). There is one waterfall to view from a ways out from a viewpoint. I wouldn't linger for too long though as the real treasures of this hike are farther up the way. Aside from a long cliff traverse this section is where I go into auto-pilot.
At about an hour into the hike there is an offshoot that goes down to Lower Punchbowl Falls. This is a great spot to have a snack or go for a swim on the way back down. I personally wouldn't expend too much energy there on the way up as this is quite a long day hike. Above Punch bowl falls the trail has far less traffic and in my eyes the scenery just keeps getting better and better!
As you hike further upstream the terrain continues to become more dynamic and rugged. There really are some thrilling sections of trail on this hike! The photo below shows one of the more amazing areas of the hike. Just after Loowit Falls the Trail is cut into the cliff more than 100 feet above the water. At the top end of the crevice you cross over on a bridge. Just after the bridge there is another offshoot that goes down to the bottom of the crevice to a nice swimming hole. However this offshoot is not for the faint of heart... actually, this hike isn't for the faint of heart.
There are plenty of hidden treasures along the way. Holly and I decided to snoop around and found a really nice set of falls next to Tenas Camp. This picture only shows the top of the falls. I assure you it's worth the effort to explore the small paths that sprout from the main trail.
Above Tenas Camp are a few miles of nice forested trail before you reach tunnel falls. This section was a great opportunity to take pictures of wildflowers and incests. I even had the chance to see some butterflies puddling!
Approaching Tunnel Falls the forest becomes very lush. Then, almost unexpectedly, Tunnel Falls appears around a corner. The temperature seems like it drops 15 degrees the instant you see it. As you move closer you start to realize where the trail leads. Halfway up a sheer wall with water cascading down the middle is a trail. Just feet before the waterfall the trail punches a tunnel in the rock behind it and emerges on the other side into a mist soaked vertical garden. It's so much to take in while trying to navigate the wet, precipitous cliff side. The experience is wildly spectacular and uncomfortable at the same time.
Most people end up turning around just after Tunnel Falls. Most people miss out.
The next section is spectacular and frightening. The trail is etched high on a cliff band in a "Frodo is headed into the mountains" sort of way. The view isn't the selling point of this ...the trail is. This daredevil leg is finished by walking right over the top of the aptly named Twister Falls!
Just above Twister Falls is my favorite spot of the hike. The perfect swimming hole. It's a great turnaround point for the hike. We stopped here and ate our lunch and waded in the COLD water for a while. What a treat!
There are two great things about the return hike at Eagle Creek. First, you get to see the same beautiful scenery all over again. Second, it's all an easy downhill stroll.
